Repairing Damaged Loco

After eagerly waiting my latest purchase, an O Gauge LNER B17/6, imagine the disappointment when it arrived badly damaged. The chimney had been pushed down into the smokebox by about 10mm, causing a bad dent and creasing.

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After getting over feeling sorry for myself, and discussing possibilities with the Seller, I decided to repair the loco rather than sending it back. I worked out a plan of action and started to prepare the model.

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After removing the original chimney and snifter valve – I cleaned up the whole area. I pushed a piece of balsa dowel into the hole left by the chimney – I then cut the dowel down to the height the Car Filler needed to be – this gave me a guide when filling.

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After letting the filler dry for a hour, I then started to file and wet and dry the filler into shape.

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The balsa guide really helped.

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I smoothed the area and then filled the imperfections and blended again, until I was happy with the result.

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I added the new chimney (the one removed was the wrong pattern for this Loco) and the snifter valve. I also did a further fill  a couple of imperfections and smoothed down.

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I then hand painted  all areas worked on with an undercoat – left it to dry overnight and then hand painted a black undercoat to finish the repair.

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Well it was certainly a challenge – but I am reasonably happy. I will let the paint dry for twelve hours and re-assess if further work is needed. It took me six hours overall to get to this stage!

 

Gt Yarmouth Class 04 shunter weathered.

At Last I have got around to weathering my recently made Gt Yarmouth Class 04 Quay Shunter. I have given it a medium level of weathering using my usual wash and wipe method and then a light airbrushing with Railmatch Frame Dirt and Roof Dirt. When dry I added a bit of dark rust onto the couplings etc.

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Finishing off recent projects for Graham

Over the last fortnight I have made a concerted effort to finish Grahams projects for him. The wagons were made by him, as was the WW1 tank wagon and tractor unit. The Class 24 was a factory made, but in plain brass and the 05 Shunter is a Heljan offering with  changed owners logo’s.  Photographs of the process are on this site – from undercoat to this page – finished.

Class 05 – O Gauge

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WW1 Tractor Unit in SM32

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WW1 Tank Wagon – SM32

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LMS/LNER Iron Ore Wagon (BR) – O gauge

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Class 24 (97201) – O Gauge

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WW1 Hopper – SM32

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Three Project Loco’s Finished

Well, I did it, all apart from weathering that is – and that will have to wait as I need to do some gardening! Oh and two grandchildren and the dog are here for a while.

I really enjoyed doing these Loco’s but I think doing three at once was a bit daunting – although working on one while the other two dried, did help maximise my time.

DJH Kit Built Britannia 70036 Boadicea

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Bachmann Brass Class 24 – 97201

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Bachmann Brass GWR Class 1361 – No 1363

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Next Steps with Undercoated Loco’s

Here is a quick update on the three Loco’s that I undercoated. Much work has taken place and many hours used over the weekend. Here are the results:-

97201 (Class 24)

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Ex GWR Class 1361

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Britannia Class 70036 Boadicea

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Well, that’s it so far. All need to be reunited with their chassis, Glazing added and coal added to the steam loco’s .  All will be weathered at a later date, and I will post some photo’s when totally finished.

 

 

Undercoating Session

Here are three Loco’s all with different stories.

BRITANNIA

I purchased this Loco, which is a very well made DJH kit about four years ago. The kit was finished apart from needing painting. Sadly the person that built it died before he could completely finish the kit.

After sitting in its box for a long time the brass and white metal was in a bit of a state. Before  any thought of undercoating I spent an afternoon cleaning everything with a gentle cream cleaner, followed by a full rinse at least three times and finally a wipe down with a white spirit coated rag and cotton buds to get into difficult places. It was then left to dry for 24 hours before undercoating. I always do two light coats rather than one (or two) medium coats, this avoids filling in fine detail. I leave it at least 12 hours between coatings

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This loco will become 70036 Boadicea

CLASS 24

Although I have called this a Class 24 in fact it will be a Class 97!!! This Loco is owned by Graham and is a Bachmann Brassworks. Although these are not the most accurate model of the Class 24, for the price Graham paid – it was a bargain. When he purchased the Loco it appeared that some of the varnish coating had been removed, but to ensure all the varnish had been removed, I got out my Badger Grit Gun! What a dirty Job this is, but totally necessary to get a good bedding for the undercoat. After the Grit had done its job I again rinsed the Loco at least three times before doing the white spirit cleaning again.

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This Loco will be Class 97 (Ex 24)  EXPERIMENT

GWR CLASS 1361

This is another Bachmann Brass (San Cheng) offering. By this time the quality had improved and the model accuracy was very good indeed. Unlike the Class 24 there was virtually no tarnishing of the brass, this I guessed was because the varnish was totally intact. Out came the grit gun again and after that the rinses and the white spirit treatment – Thankfully when I purchased this Loco it came with a Chassis that was Factory painted – this has certainly saved a lot of time.

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This Loco will become no 1363.

Summary

TWO light coats better than one med or heavy – take you time – all the above achieved without a single paint run,

I make my own undercoat – Humbrol Matt White  +  a touch of Matt Black. Depending on the top colour it can dictate how dark or light it needs to be. Undercoat colour can and does affect the final finish/colour.

WW1 SM32 Tank Wagon – Camouflaged

This wagon was made by Graham and painted by myself. It is not quite finished as we have no transfers for it, we hope to get them this weekend at the Bressingham Garden Railway Show. It will also be weathered after transfer application.

I must admit I took this wagon on as a challenge. When it arrived I did a plan on how I would go about it, including what paint I would use and the order I would do the painting. I also had been given a photograph of the prototype that has recently been restored.

After undercoating, I sprayed the chassis and bogies Battleship Grey. The colours were then added to the tank, sand colour first, then green (as Tin Turtle colour) and then the red oxide. The edging was added after all paint had 24 hours to dry. The Black lining was done with a ‘Black Permanent Marker’, as near scale as I could get. Oh yes, and a very steady hand !

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